Sunday, October 2, 2011

Do it and then do it again!

I wrote this blog a day or two after the experience but somehow the blog didn't post properly. I only hope I can remember it all again!

Our travelers breakfasted on traditional Polish fare in the lovely breakfast room at the Dedek Park hotel. Some were a little apprehensive about trying a type of cottage cheese smeared on fresh whole wheat bread, topped with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers or very thinly sliced ham and thinly sliced Swiss cheese. Some tried the cheese blintz but didn't know they could ask to have it heated until the blintz had disappeared. There was always cold cereal for the less adventurous and on the second day we realized we could ask for scrambled eggs if we wanted. The traditional way of serving eggs for breakfast seems to be hard boiled, cut in half and slathered with a type of mayonnaise dressing. The coffee was good and plentiful - not always the case on this trip it would turn out.

Fot: Our group in Warsaw, Linda
We gathered everyone and filled the van for our first excursion to Warsaw proper. Lazienke Park is our destination -home to a royal palace, beautiful gardens and the iconic bronze of Chopin. Our guide, Joanna (yoanna)is a delightful and very well informed young woman just finishing her studies in psychology at the local university. She tells us she likes guiding because it helps her understand people. We take a delightful stroll through the park in the early morning, ending in front of the royal palace of King August Poniatowski who invited artists and politicians for breakfast at the palace every Thursday. He was a consummate collector Of fine art, amassing one of the largest and most diverse collections in Poland. The palace is called The Bathhouse because it was originally built as a bathhouse for those bathing or swimming in the large ponds in front of and behind the palace structure.

Moving on we visited the open amphitheater where wonderful musical concerts are performed throughout the summer months. The amphitheater is built in the style of a ruined Greek Temple and is really quite stunning. Our little group moved on through the park on our way to see the crowning glory of the bust of Chopin. Along the way we were treated to a good view of Belvedere, the current Presidential Palace. We were struck by how much access the public has to this place. Security obviously isn't a concern in this country. I have already visited the bust of Chopin and the way is long to see it again so I opt to return to the palace and make an interior visit with one of our travelers who finds walking difficult.

What an incredible stroke of luck this turns out to be. The rest of our travelers moved on up the hill toward Chopin with a plan to return to the pond for a ride in the gondola. Aneta and Annie and I return to wait by the pond. The gondoliers fail to show up so Annie and I go inside the palace for a tour. I round the corner into the first room and am stopped dead in my tracks by a Rembrandt self portrait. I was stunned into complete silence; a silence of reverence. Rembrandt always affects me this way. The first one I ever saw was at the Seattle World's Fair in 1962 and I burst into tears at the sight. I had somewhat better control this time but the effect was still the same. Eventually I continued on my tour through the palace and when I entered the Portrait Gallery, there he was again. Not a self portrait this time but unmistakably a Rembrandt - just hanging there on the wall like any old picture might. Of course it wasn't just any old picture, it was from the Master's hand. Annie practically grew to the bench waiting for me to get over looking at it. We moved to the upstairs of the palace when my phone rang with Aneta wondering what had happened to us. While I was enjoying my reverie in the presence of Rembrandt the others had returned, the gondoliers had arrived and they had co posted their ride on the large manmade lake/pond of the park.

Once we were back in the van and everyone was talking about their respective experiences it was really clear that it was good Annie and I had decided to forgo the gondola ride as they all piled into a single gondola and ended up with a quarter inch of clearance between the side of the boat and the water! I told them if we'd been in the boat they would have had a good view of the lake bottom and we all had a good laugh.

Fot: Old Jewish quarter in Warsaw, Linda
Joanna joined us for lunch at a Jewish Restaurant near the Jewish Quarter, which was to be our next stop. Aneta went to park the car and was gone a long time. Fortunately we had Joanna to recommend what to order for lunch and save us from the embarrassment of ordering something we wouldn't like or couldn't eat. Aneta finally showed up in time to gulp down her meal before we moved along to see the remnants of the Jewish Ghetto and the the Jewish Memorial, adjacent to the new Jewish History Museum under construction. It is an impressive structure and it will be a nice addition to future tours when it is completed in 2013. Joanna took her leave of our tour at this point but not without making many new friends in this most appreciative group of travelers who were extremely concerned that Aneta tip her appropriately!

Next stop - free time! Time to shop and drop a few Zlotys into the Polish economy. Annie did her part, first stopping at a sidewalk cafe to down a couple of Kava machiotto's. She managed to find a couple of really nice pieces of amber to take back as gifts. Aneta had some shopping to do and needed to pick up some tickets to the Sabat Revue to be given later as a thank-you gift to Fran for inviting three others on the tour and being a returning traveler herself, and a birthday gift to Dennis, who celebrated his 66th with us.

Fot: Old Town of Warsaw, Aneta
When she rejoined us she was laden with new purchases herself and treated me to an ice cream cone in celebration of her good mood. She so rarely shops for herself it was a delight to see her indulge and be so happy about it.

Do you think we were tired yet? Oh yaa. Our feet were screaming out for a rest so Annie found a nice table at another sidewalk cafe and ordered a short bottle of Chianti while Aneta and I indulged in the succulent flavors of our ice cream cones. Once the stragglers began to gather at the appointed statue in the square we headed back to the van to make our way to dinner.

Fot: The Royal Castle in Warsaw, Aneta
The Mint turned out to be a highlight of our eating experiences in Poland. This lovely, small restaurant tucked around the corner from a Main-street stip mall area was a gem in a forest of pizza parlors and convenience stores. Very nicely appointed and clean in design, the waitress kept the wine bottles appearing and the food (gluten free for Joe) was outstanding. Sated we decided to forgo Warsaw bY night and repair to our hotel for a good night's rest before our big journey day on the morrow.

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