Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Religion, Rafting and Royal Digs

Aneta promised us an amazing day and she didn't miss the mark. The day was mixed for weather with overcast skies in the morning changing to partly sunny in the afternoon. We left Zakopane and started our journey toward the Pieniny National Park and our raft trip through the gorge separating Poland and Slovakia in this park that straddles two countries.

Aneta announced that we had one stop first as we bounced along a country lane wondering what miracle of history awaited. She pulled to a stop in front of a UNESCO World Heritage site; the wooden church in Debno Podhalanski. This church was built in the 15th Century. Yes, you read that correctly - it is around 600 years old, made entirely of wood and still standing. In fact it is used daily for services in the village.
Fot: The Church in Debno Podhalanskie, Linda
The interior walls and ceiling are decorated with designs and murals dating from the 15th and 16th Centuries, painted in a stunning 33 different colors and still as bright as the day they went up. It is truly a wonder how the pigments have survived all this time considering there is no climate control in a 600 year old log building. Scientists have not been able to determine what techniques were used to acquire such a long lasting pigment on wood. We enjoyed a tape recorded tour with a British English speaker who was a little difficult to understand but we got the gist of it.

One highlight of this stop was a walk through the village where a number of our party observed
An elderly woman, called a Babcia (bop-sha), for Grandmother, leaning out of a window watching the tourists who invaded her village in a steady stream. We asked Aneta to ask her if we could take her photograph. She politely accepted and everyone gathered around to get a photo.

Then she started talking and we learned that she has an American passport! She was born in the US and she has a son living in tennessee yet today. She was excited to talk to a group of Americans and happily posed for pictures. I think we all got some very good photos of her. I took a short walk up the street and took a few other photos in this most picturesque village. The only downside to this stop was that the public WC was padlocked and we were all wondering if we would make it to the next stop! We were so far out in the countryside there weren't any petrol stations anywhere.

Fot: Americans taking pictures, Linda
Continuing on our journey, we headed for the Pieniny National Forest and the beautiful Dunajec River (du-nigh-ets. Naturally upon arrival a WC stop was the first priority. Then we headed through the beautiful entry arches and walked toward the river. Aneta handed out our tickets and the rafters made a hurried decision as to what raft we should climb into.

Fot: At the pier of Dunajec River, Linda
The rafts are very unusual in their construction. If you dissect them you find that they are a series of narrow canoe shaped vessels with flat sides hooked together with seats that span the entire structure. The seats have backs on them that fold down while everyone is climbing aboard and then are raised up for your comfort once the raft is fully loaded. Each raft holds 11 people plus two pole masters to move the raft along through shallow water and guide you safely through more rapid water. We were a party of 9 so two English speaking French people were hijacked from another group and told to join our party.

Fot: Our boatman, Linda
We pushed off on what would prove to be a lovely excursion. The mountains are stunning rising majestically above the gorge walls. We enjoyed close up views of the Three Crowns and learned that they are called Beautiful Katia, Flat Katia and Hairy Katia. Hairy Katia gets her name
from the proliferation of brush and trees growing on her top. Although we were not observant enough to pick them out ourselves, our pole man pointed out tourists high up on the peaks looking down into then gorge from above. Some of us were reluctant to believe his eyes were that good until we saw the flash from a camera go off at the top of flat Katia. Our Poleman was quite the comedian and kept Aneta busy translating his running dialogue that consisted largely of jokes at the expense of the Slovakians on the opposite side of the river bank and everyone's mother-in-law. His last joke: " do you know how many jokes there are about mothers-in-law?"
Answer: "None. They are all true."

His jokes tickled him more than they tickled us, but he did throw in a few ribald zingers that were a bit hard not to laugh at once translated. He shared, through humor mostly, some of the local folklore about the mountains and the two hour trip passed very quickly. I was sitting in the rear of the raft on the right side. As we went through some fast water I got a good soaking of cold mountain water and had wet pants, socks and shoes for the next several hours.

When we returned to shore we learned that getting out of the raft was going to be even more tricky than getting in. Everyone helped everyone else and we managed to evacuate in good time. The poor elderly Frenchman simply couldn't get off the seat without two of our party putting their hands under his arms and hoisting him to his feet. Then he needed help maintaining his balance as he tried to step out of the raft onto the shore.

We saw many hikers and bicyclists along the pretty road that borders the river on the Slovakian side. Apparently it is just a road connecting two resorts and is not used by automobiles only foot traffic and bicycles.

Aneta had arranged lunch for us in Szczawnica at a nice local cafe. This was our first foray into ordering off the menu, that which we would choose for ourselves. most of us ordered too much and couldn't eat it. Then we felt guilty about having to leave food on our plates knowing that Aneta was paying the bill. Aneta saw that we were all well into our respective meals and then she said she was going to go get the van. She had to catch a transport back to the parking lot where the rafts had put in. She told us she would be back by 4:15 and we should walk around the village and then meet her across the bridge in the parking lot. We lingered over our meals and then straggled out of the restaurant in pairs to look at the town. There really wasn't much town where we disembarked from the raft ride but there were a few souvenir stands and some even had some nice quality items. I don't think any of our travelers made purchases however. We gathered around some nice benches in the parking lot to wait for Aneta. Fran had a visit from a little brown and white dog. She buddied up to him and he seemed quite taken with her. Suddenly a young woman at one of the tourist cafes gave a whistle and off he shot across the square and straight into her arms. She picked the little dog up and hugged him. Then she put him down and took his little face in her hands and had a brief talk with him. Then she marched across the street and the square with the little dog at her heels. She marched right up to Fran and told the dog to stay! He looked after her with yearning. His little ears lay down flat and he looked quite disconsolate. Fran looked around at all of us and said, "did she just Give him to me?". We all agreed that is what it looked like. Fran said, "well he must belong to her.".

And then a young man standing by a cook trailer stepped around the corner and said, "No. He is a homeless dog."

Poor Fran didn't know what to do! We hung around a bit more and the little dog finally got bored. He found some friends of his hanging out on the bridge and the last we saw of him he was deeply engaged in sniffing them to see where they had been and what they had been up to all day.

Time continued to pass. Everyone kept asking me what the agenda was for the rest of the day. I told them we were going to visit a castle and have dinner at the castle but we had to be there before 6 pm. More time passed. Aneta didn't come. It was now 5:15 pm and she had been gone for over two hours. We made a few jokes about being abandoned until it became obvious that people were getting quite anxious. I had left my phone in the van, not wanting to subject it to the rafting trip. Needless to say, the one time I really needed to, I couldn't
make contact with Aneta. I had my Blackberry with me and I had several contact numbers in it for Aneta but not her mobile number. Finally, using Joe's 3G iPhone, is called one of the numbers. A nice man answer in Polish. I said, "Aneta. I need to talk to Aneta."

The man said, "Ahh. Aneta tour."

"I know." I said.

"English?" the man said.

"Yes!" I replied.

"I get you Aneta phone," he said.

We scrambled to come up with a pen and a piece of paper to write the phone number but eventually got one and the man waited patiently for me.

"okay," I said when I was ready and he gave me the number.

We immediately tried the number but the call didn't go through. We tried again and Aneta answered. She was on her way and said she would be there for us in "five minutes."

We went back to patient waiting and eventually - about 20 minutes later we saw the van pull in. Cheers went up as our cheerful but tired group made their way to the boarding area.

The ride to Niedzica Castle was as fast as the road would allow. We arrived exactly at 6 pm. Aneta ran to the ticket booth and got tickets for our visit to the castle but we had missed the opportunity to have dinner in the castle chamber as the last seating had just closed. The castle is beautiful. It is located on a small peninsula jutting into the Dunajec River. It was an owner occupied castle until fairly recently and is still visited regularly by the sons of the last official owners. The castle is now owned by the State and has been well cared for as they prepared it as a museum. There is a hotel in one wing now and the exhibits
within the castle walls are quite spectacular.

An interesting legend exists around the son of one of the previous owners of this castle who traveled to South America in the 17th Century. He met and married an Inca Princess. When the Inca's became engaged in a series of battles he began to fear for the lives of his wife and child so he moved them to the castle in Poland. Sometime later a delegation arrived with some important papers for the Princess, which were thought to detail the whereabouts of Inca Treasure. Some theorize that the treasure itself was brought to Poland and buried or hidden in the castle or somewhere on the grounds. Although it has been searched for diligently over the years, no one has found the treasure, nor been able to decipher the code for its hiding place from the documents.

Climbing up three floors of stone steps and stepping gingerly over rugged interior courtyards took it's toll on those of us with back, knee and hip difficulties so we were prepared to leave when the time came. We enjoyed some spectacular views from the castle ramparts and upon

leaving were treated to an amazing sunset and dusk settling over the Dunajec River valley. We all lingered on the bridge and soaked up that rich view-scape as we thought back over this most enriching and lovely day.

Tired, but happy, we piled into the van for a return trip to our B&B and a nice late supper to warm our insides.

As you might imagine, by now we are getting pretty well acquainted with each other. We lingered over dinner and a couple of good bottles of wine,recounting our various experiences, laughing together and generally settling in to a delightful group friendship. Annie said she knew it was going to work when we were waiting for Aneta in then parking lot and no one got, "pissy, crabby or bitchy." ... Or words to that effect.

We are still hoping for a clear day so we can go to the top of the mountains! We passed the half way point on our trip together and so far it has been a great experience. What a mellow and patient group of travelers we have been blessed with on this excursion!

Linda

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